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Selfridges’ ‘The Flipside’: Aesthetically Beautiful, But Lacks Deeper Meaning

October 4, 2018 Adriana Goldenberg
Louis Vuitton’s Radical Journey

Louis Vuitton’s Radical Journey

As a creative studio founded on research and immersive experiences, Holition field-tripped to Selfridges’ ‘The Flipside’ on a quest to experience and review the “altered states of luxury” that were on offer from Louis Vuitton, Thom Browne, Gareth Pugh, Loewe, Mr Lyan, Byredo, Google and Selfridges.

Gathering outside the concrete backside of Selfridge’s, we awaited the opening of the vault-like entrance, prepared to be awed by the curation and creation of designers and tech giants alike. At 12pm sharp, the spherical door twisted open and our exploration of modern luxuries began.

The Entrance

The Entrance

Entering into an unbranded ‘play’ area, we danced around boulder-like mirrors and a well-dressed crowd, navigating between the masses as they snagged selfies. Slightly confused about the purpose of the mirrors, we commandeered a staff member. We were told there were quotes on the back of each mirror to explore but the narrative ended there.

Leaving the mirrored area in search of the first designer space, we followed the crowd to a collage of plants and electronics that Loewe had curated in perspex columns. Glossing our eyes over the unidentified floor to ceiling plants and vintage electronics collections, we left, slightly perplexed, hoping that the next part would give us something with deeper meaning to chew on.

The Libationary

The Libationary

As we approached the Libationary, we were handed instructions which told us to choose still life A, B or C according to which objects caught our attention, then to answer the questions within the matching section on our paper ballot. Completing the exercise, we felt that by only answering three diagnostic questions, our results (hyper-personalised cocktails) perhaps weren’t as accurate as they could have been, but the tiny taste of tipple was a nice touch!

After the cocktail tasting, we studied Thom Browne’s ‘Dreamscape’. The designer’s theatrical S/S18 pieces illuminated and disappeared behind an intermittent fog over the glass casing. The exposé showcased the craft and imagination built into the pieces, but we left wanting more than just fashioned silhouettes.

From one theatre to the next, we delved into Gareth Pugh’s ‘Void’ video installation, which was meant to prompt ‘an awareness of being’ as viewers positioned themselves between two deserted digital beaches. The black sand flooring provided a nice contrasting texture to the visuals, but we didn’t necessarily feel more aware as we stood motionless, awaiting something more.

Louis Vuitton’s ‘Radical Journey’ intended to provoke thought around the future of travel, yet it’s floating islands of crystals were slightly lost at sea. It was only after we accidentally bumped one of the islands that we discovered the pastiche of gems, flora and glass objects actually moved. Perhaps more UX would have been helpful to point this out earlier because the moving glimmers of light from the floating islands provided for a great use of Kira Kira!

Leaving the islands, we sailed over to cosmetics company, Byredo’s, installation: a prompt for audiences to consider the cost of water. The jugs of water made for a beautifully heartbreaking (and Instagrammable) backdrop as the brand representative explained how each is dated and stored; but after a moving speech about considering our water usage and the imminent fear of losing this precious commodity, she proceeded to hand out free glass water bottles, which seemed like a bit of an oxymoron…

Byredo’s Beautiful Display

Byredo’s Beautiful Display

Selfridge’s part in the exhibition was ‘The Shadow Dial’, where viewers could explore the concept of time through a projected mashup of a sundial and analogue clock atop a terracotta plinth.

The last part of the exhibition was (ironically) the most interactive: A ‘luxury portrait’ by a Google Pixel 2. We spun a dial to choose a background on the three circular screens, after which a Google Pixel 2 propped up via tripod, made a gif out of four quick photos. The printout and gif were memorable takeaways and were a positive finale to the exhibition.

Google’s Pixel 2 In Action

Google’s Pixel 2 In Action

Although aesthetically the exhibition, in parts, was stunning, we couldn’t help but feel that ‘The Flipside’ lacked deeper stimulation and meaning. The entire exhibition only touched the surface of luxuries such as time, water, materialism, personalisation and pastimes through a seemingly one-way conversation, with the eight-part journey showcasing what we consume, but never exploring how we attribute worth. What the exhibition lacked was value.

Defining Value In a Modern Context

What is ‘value’ though? The nature of the word is relative and inherently social. As defined by psychologist, Dr. Jordan Peterson, “value, in all senses of the word, is a social issue,” created by hierarchies and constructs, in which we create webs of meaning and tag them with a price, based off of our tenderment. In an attempt to characterise meaning and value, Peterson marries neuropsychology, cognitive science, and Freudian and Jungian approaches to mythology and narrative to outline that value structures are meant generate various outcomes, or conversations.

In Peterson’s lectures, he discusses that we all have intrinsic value structures that impact how we establish meaning. Within these structures, we’re constantly in conversation with ourselves and others to validate the meaning of each exchange or experience. Each validation is a conversation, stemming from the way we sense, feel, act, relate and think about something.

Farshad Maghnati, Kwek Choon Ling, Amir Nasermoadeli

Farshad Maghnati, Kwek Choon Ling, Amir Nasermoadeli

These impressions culminate into a complex social ecosystem, in which our utilitarian, hedonic, symbolic and economic perceptions are funnelled together to establish value of something in comparison to something else.

So what this means is that to drive value, experiences must function as social ecosystems, by offering various meaningful exchanges and conversational stimuli. So how the hell do you build a social ecosystem?

Building Value-Driven Experiences

First, we need to define what makes up the fibre of an experience, then we can piece them together to see how they work as a meaningful experience or ecosystem. We must remind you that designing meaningful experiences is, without a doubt, challenging, ever-evolving and can throw a curveball to even the most established storytellers and curators.

Looking to seasoned veterans Joseph Pine II and James H. Gilmore, let’s begin with the anatomy of successful consumer-facing experiences. The pair, who have been defining this since 1998, dissected a variety of experiences, consumer opinions and the experience-based economy.

Deep-diving into why consumers unquestionably desire experiences, the theologists looked to human nature for inspiration. Plotting their research and hypothesis on a matrix comparing levels of participation against absorption or immersion, Pine and Gilmore fathered the “Four Realms of an Experience”; and despite the age of the framework which emerged pre-digital, much of what it suggests is still applicable today.

The Four Realms of an Experience (Pine and Gilmore, 1998)

The Four Realms of an Experience (Pine and Gilmore, 1998)

“An experience occurs when a company intentionally uses services as the stage, and goods as props, to engage individual customers in a way that creates a memorable event. Commodities are fungible, goods tangible, services intangible, and experiences memorable.”

Now taking ‘The Flipside’ into consideration, we can first start on the x axis, comparing the participatory elements within the exhibition. Considering that Mr Lyan’s ‘Libationary’ was the only stage out of eight that required active participation and all five senses, Holition have positioned it as quite a passive exhibition.

Pine and Gilmore define the y axis as “a connection, or environmental relationship, that unites customers with the event or performance.” Since the exhibition was mainly a one-sided conversation from designers and artists, we’ve plotted it towards absorption.

By joining the two points together, we can see that ‘The Flipside’ was heavily weighted towards a passive entertainment experience.

‘The Flipside’ Plotted on Pine and Gilmore’s Diagram

‘The Flipside’ Plotted on Pine and Gilmore’s Diagram

Straddling the centre, is value, which we can see is out of reach from where ‘The Flipside’ sits.

We Wanted to Love It…

All in all, creating ‘meaningful’ experiences is a difficult feat, because it requires building a social ecosystem out of a basic understanding of economics, physics and behaviour and establishing a series of value exchanges.

What’s more, is allowing the ecosystems to run their organic and natural flow, welcoming diversity in opinion, choice and meaning, and unfortunately, ‘The Flipside’ just didn’t cut it. Rather than engaging audiences through entertainment, education, escapism and esthetic, it initiated a one way conversation, predefining value through limited experience.

Intricate Greenery from Loewe

Intricate Greenery from Loewe

All in all, Holition thought ‘The Flipside’ had great potential to be a valuable exposé, given the impressive lineup of collaborators, but sadly, we regret to say that the exhibition fell short of our expectations. Based off of UX, subject matter, impact and aesthetic, Holition gave the exhibition a 5.5/10.

In Fashunnn Tags Selfridges, Fashion, Fashunnn, UX, Strategy, Exhibition, Retail
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Primark Protocol: How To Win In An Urban Safari

February 12, 2017 Adriana Goldenberg

Don't Get Horrified Going to Primark 👌

In the (concrete) jungle, the mighty (concrete) jungle, Primark lives in sight. Though if you've ever been to Primark, you'll know that it really is a jungle in there and can feel like a giant blur if you don't know 'the protocol' for a rewarding trip. 

Within the blooming aisles of the super-sized underpriced mecca lies an epically perfect pair of leather laser cut gloves, an iconic set of horrendously hot hoops, a £5 pair of kick flares you didn't know you needed, and a whole lot of other treasures you'll only find if you know how to successfully navigate Primark. 

As a veteran of Primark and a non-discriminatory trend hunter, I've got some tips to snag some awesome pieces from Primark in under sixty minutes and six quid. 

1. Never take your shoes off at a party

Rule number one is simple: don't, under any circumstances or any stretch of the imagination, think it's a good idea to go in the dressing rooms. If you're heading to Primark for anything other than accessories or a good groutfit, you'll assume that you need to try things on, but don't be daft and find yourself in a two hour queue whilst your friends are throwing back Bloody Mary's on a sunny Saturday. 

Solution? Dress the part. 

In order to effectively try on clothes in under 20 seconds and have a mirror whilst doing so, minimise time spent clipping chokers together in the accessories aisle, or be able to pile as many rings on your fingers to scavenge to the tills, be sure to have the right outfit on. 

The only time super-thin, skin-tight sheen leggings and seemingly vacuum-formed tops are allowed to be worn together in public without a coat is when embarking on a trip to Primark. By shedding a big coat or extra layers, you can easily slip on clothes over your leggings, saving you from the unearthly hell that is the queue for the dressing rooms. 

In terms of footwear, be sure to choose something you can run in, but slips on and off easily, because tug of war with the perfect £2 trousers is real. 

2. This is not the time to make it rain, even though it's cheap. 

Trust me, I am the first one to impulsively buy a drop dead Sequoia silk skinny strap dress and grab every pair of denim that fits me, but when skimping for gems on a budget in Primark, a bottomless wallet is not allowed. 

Solution? A safe bet's a good bet. 

Bring in a set amount of money, and stick to it. Trust me, you'll be much happier that you didn't spend £136 on poorly made, child-labour produced sunglasses, jeans, and sun hats. *My suggestion - £60 is the perfect limit to come home with a quarter of a new wardrobe, not be too disappointed that your wallet's a bit thinner, and you won't be eating couscous for the rest of the month. 

3. Have a SKUued perspective going in

The one time I'll ever tell you to go in with a narrow mind, is when going to Primark. Do you research first! Look online, collate your Pinterest boards, chat to your friends about the glossies. Whatever you do, don't go in for "a wander" at the world's largest superstore. 

Solution: Put in the work - because it's worth it. 

Find the nearest store, make your shopping list, and conquer.

Right - so are you feeling a bit more ready to jump into this? 

Excuse me whilst I play human Tetris to attempt to join the queue for the tills..

Excuse me whilst I play human Tetris to attempt to join the queue for the tills..

Well, I hope I've given you a few tips to be prepared for what's in store for you at Primark - literally; and that's what it takes to win in an urban safari, people. Best of luck! 

What's the best thing you've ever discovered at Primark? Tag me or DM on Instagram (@blog.blog.blah) with a brief description for your chance to win. A £30 gift card will be awarded for the best entry! 

 

In Fashunnn Tags Fashunnn, Fashion, Primark, Retail, Shopping

STYLE WITH A STIGMA: THE LAWS OF FASHION IN A COURTROOM

February 12, 2017 Adriana Goldenberg
Lawyer_Fashion_Female

If you're a woman and you want to venture into law, you'd best have strong skin and walk like a boss in heels. Despite the thousands of different fields of law, each and every one is testing in their own right - especially when it comes to the way women present themselves in court. As many have referred to female lawyers as having the strictest dress-code, women are essentially obliged to compete with the figurative stature that men have over women in the courtroom.

We all remember Legally Blonde and Elle Woods' pushing the fashion boundaries in both in the courtroom and her law school classes alike; or Ally McBeal, the story of a young attorney who became known for her mini skirts. Yet while both of the movies inspire women to tailor the traditional courtroom dress-code and attitude, a stigma against women's courtroom attire and presence is very prevalent today...

Read more at Miista.com!

In Fashunnn Tags Fashion, Fashunnn, Feminism, Law
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BEECOSYSTEMS

February 12, 2017 Adriana Goldenberg
Bees_Ecosystems_National Geographic

We know how much you dislike that annoying buzzing sound in your ear whilst sipping on that Aperol Spritz, but bees become much less imposing when we realise the impact they have on our lives and how societally similar they are to humans.

From Sarah Burton’s 2012 Alexander McQueen collection, Giambattista Valli’s bee bracelets, Valentino’s embroidered outerwear, and our SS14 collection, to beauty products like Burt’s Bees and Bee Good, bees have caused quite a stir in our world...

Read more on Miista.com! 

In Fashunnn Tags Bees, Fashion, Fashunnn, Environment
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FLO-JO, A LEGGING LEGEND

February 12, 2017 Adriana Goldenberg
Flo Jo_Olympics

As we near end of our Future Athens collection, we wanted to honour a heroine, whose style and athletic abilities are on point: Florence Griffith Joyner. 

“Conventional is not for me. I like things that are uniquely Flo. I like being different.”

Read more on Miista.com! 

In Fashunnn Tags Fashunnn, Fashion, Feminism
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FROM CATWALKS TO SWEATSHOPS AND THE GENDER IN BETWEEN: FAST CATWALK FASHION WITHOUT GENETIC DISPOSITION

February 12, 2017 Adriana Goldenberg
Vetements_Gender Neutrality_ Catwalk

It only seems appropriate that not only as homage to Bowie's musical talent, society has paid tribute to his gender fluidity and personal style this year in more ways than simple acceptance.

As of June last year, Caitlyn Jenner came out as transgender and Miley Cyrus and Ruby Rose (amongst many others) declared themselves as gender neutral, or not specifying between genders...

Read more on Miista.com! 

In Fashunnn Tags Fashunnn, Fashion, Vetements, Gender Neutrality

When Three Harvey Nichols Stylists Wear Miista

February 12, 2017 Adriana Goldenberg
Miista_Shoes_Stylists

Ready, steady, style! 

This season for a Harvey Nichols collaboration, we teamed up with the Style Concierge team to have them style Miista shoes. We had the whole team do a digital flat lay of what they would wear, both Miista shoes and what to wear with them. Out of the stylist's entries, we chose three finalists to shoot and shed light on their personal flare. 

Meet the first winner: Kimmie... 

Continue reading on Miista.com! 

In Fashunnn Tags Fashunnn, Fashion, Harvey Nichols, Miista

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